Difficulty Level Easy

I have been thoroughly enjoying my perusal of Roast Chicken and Other Stories by English chef and author Simon Hopkinson. This award winning book has been dubbed the most useful cookbook of all time and I found it to be, above all, a delightful read.

I share many of Mr. Hopkinson's views on cooking, such as using good, local ingredients in season. He doesn't have quite the insouciance of Nigel Slater, but there is a sense of relaxation about his views and recipes. You have the distinct feeling that he would much prefer to cook a dish that is delicious, rather than beautiful.

The book is organized by ingredient, rather than by courses or food types. He has chosen forty of his favourite ingredients, written a little introductory essay and then provided a number of recipes using that particular ingredient. His writing is so charming that I've been reading all the recipes, even for those ingredients that I will never use. I can honestly say that I will never cook Deep Fried Calves Brains, but I loved reading about it. He is so persuasive that he almost has me convinced me that I would like anchovies, despite the fact that my lifetime of eating experience has proven otherwise.

Of course, for a cookbook to be useful, one must use it. I have made quite a number of the recipes in this book now, and they have all been delicious. Every time I open the book, I find something else I want to try. Some recipes are quite complex, but most of them are are simple and straightforward and sound like something you want to eat.

I have been making a version of this recipe for years, but I've never called it anything as classy as Sauce Vierge. Mr. Hopkinson suggests using it over grilled fish, but I've used it over grilled meat, tofu, and most frequently as a pasta sauce. I've been known to eat it straight out of the bowl. The key to this recipe is the use of good ripe field tomatoes, which are in season now, and good extra-virgin olive oil. Once or twice a year I add some really ripe brie to the tomato mixture for our favourite pasta dish. I don't bother seeding the tomatoes, but if you are using it as a sauce, it's probably worth the work.

INGREDIENTS