Ultimate Guide to Greek Wines

Agriculturally, Greece is no Garden of Eden. Its geography is mountainous and its growing season short. Yet wine grapes thrive there. The rocky soil drains well. Overall cool temperatures keep grapes small. The resulting skin-to-pulp ratio produces high levels of tannins, which age into refreshing tartness. Cabernet and other international varieties are sometimes added to smooth the native grapes' rougher edges.

Vineyards carved from the mountainside are necessarily compact. They produce distinctive vintages due to the microclimates found at different altitudes and in different regions. For instance, a vineyard in the central district of Nemea located at 1,000 feet (300 meters) may get milder winters and produce more mellow grapes than a neighboring vineyard at 1,500 feet (450 meters).

We set out on our survey of some of Greece's main wine-producing regions in the North with Macedonia. This landlocked area experiences comfortably warm summers and decidedly cold winters. The soil of fine clay and limestone grows two dominant grape varieties: the dark, tannin-rich xynomavro (zee-NO-mahv-ro) and its sweeter cousin, negoska.

Farther south is the central region of the Peloponnese. The soil here is mostly rocky, although finer, sandier deposits collect in the valleys. The more moderate Peloponnese climate produces more tempered grapes. agiorgitiko (ah-yor-YEE-ti-ko) is honored among Greek oenophiles, called "lion's blood" for its deep red color. It appears in many a dry wine. In contrast, the lightly blushed moschofilero (mos-co-FEE-le-ro) is favored for dry white wines. Meanwhile, the red malagousia and white rhoditis are more citrusy, but still not sweet.

Sprawled across the Mediterranean are the Greek islands, including Crete, Rhodes, Samos and Santorini. The soil here is volcanic, rich in ash and somewhat heavier than that of the mainland. It holds water better, sustaining the vines in this dry climate. The islands' mild winters and hot summers produce sweeter grapes. They are prime producers of muscat, a grape used to make raisins. However, their dominant grape, assyrtiko (ah-SEER-ti-ko), is widely considered the finest Greek variety for making dry white wine.

With so many regions and varieties, how can you find the best Greek wine for you and your friends to try? Check the next page for tips on choosing a Greek wine.

Knowing about the popular varieties of Greek grapes will help you choose the type of wine to try. It helps to compare them to more familiar international counterparts. For instance, if a Burgundy is your hearty red of choice, try a xinomavro. Fond of merlot? You might be interested in an agiorgitiko. On the other hand, if you want a lighter white wine like a riesling, an assyrtiko from Santorini might amuse. You might start with wines that blend Greek and international grapes to help you learn the particular qualities of the Greek varieties.

Also learn to recognize the label names of the most respected winemakers and their vineyards. For example, the Boutari family is one of the founding families of modern Greek viticulture. They've become something of an empire, the Boutari Group, with six wineries. Their labels bear their own name or that of Kir-Yianni, one of their smaller holdings. The equally venerable Mercouri Estates was founded in 1860. Its signature vintage still uses the Italian cultivar imported in 1870.

Newer faces on the scene include Evangelos Gerovalliou and George Skouras. Both vintners are known for their fresh approach to using Greek-grown, French-origin varieties. Look for labels carrying their name. Wines from Carras Estate wines also show Gerovalliou's influence: He was its chief vintner until 1999.

Wines are usually chosen to go with certain foods, of course. You can serve Greek wines with any type of food, applying the general rule of pairing lighter wines with lighter-flavored foods and more assertive vintages with stronger-flavored dishes. However, Greek wines are a natural partner for Greek cuisine. A dry white moscofilero balances oil-rich appetizers like calamari and baked feta cheese. A more complex main dish, like the challenging mix of onion, garlic, eggplant, lamb, cinnamon and bechamel sauce in a traditional moussaka, calls for a full-bodied red like a xynomavro. Pair a vinsanto or other dessert wine with a Greek spice cake.